Thursday, December 30, 2010

The Buzz about TRACE


I first heard the news of one of my best friends getting hired at The W Hotel back in October; at which point the realization of such a socially prestigious connection hadn't hit me. After tonight's experience, I now understand.

We all know that the newest spots in town are always "the coolest"... for a while. After the shimmery cloud of novelty settles, we're usually left with something that resembles the place right down the street. I'm here to say this is not the case with TRACE.

I've always voiced my longing for a good hotel restaurant and bar here in Austin. I've been to most here in town and none have ever made me want to come back. Well, maybe my recent visit to TRIO at The Four Seasons was better than expected... but how many years did they take to figure that out??

So after hearing for weeks about The W and what TRACE has to offer, we made a plan to go: 4:30pm in the Living Room. But which one? There are four! This is Starwood Property's more modern and casual take on the lobby bar; which, I have to admit I kind of love. They've pulled off four separate spaces that offer four very different atmospheres and environments. Couches and pillows and rugs and fireplaces all invite you in after being greeted by about 12 cute valet guys... I was beginning to feel like I was on vacation!

I was the first to arrive (A'hem! Yes, I was actually on time) and plopped myself down on a smokey gray sectional sprinkled with brightly colored pillows, perfectly positioned for back support. I liked it already. Although the waitress took more than a few minutes to greet me, the drink I ordered, Black Peppercorn Martini, was good. A little on the sweet side, but who can resist a gin martini muddled with basil?? Not me.

C came out to greet us and so the VIP treatment began. He gave us a brief tour of the other spaces before moving us to The Secret Bar, aka The Red Room, and got us a cozy corner spot. All versions of red were strategically combined to produce a very rich and sexy feel... and at 5pm on the day before New Year's Eve, what more could you want?

While the bathrooms were not the easiest to find, I appreciated that they were individual rooms versus larger rooms with stalls. The honeycomb slate tiles kept the sleek feel while the miniature lamp fixtures next to the framed mirrors above the sink kept it warm. I especially liked the "vacant/occupied" airplane style lock system they each have.


We enjoyed a second round of cocktails before venturing to the actu
al restaurant for dinner: I ordered a French 75, a drink I thought had been around forever but I just discovered, is apparently easier to mess up than I thought. A recent experience at the Fleming's bar was disappointing but The Secret Bar must have a secret recipe... my French 75 was killer! I was very pleased to say the least.

I'll admit that from the str
eet, Lavaca that is, TRACE is very visible. Once you get inside the hotel and work your way in to one or more of the living rooms, it suddenly doesn't seem so clear. My advice is to just follow the hallways back... they all lead to the restaurant. It's maybe a total of 20 steps from the front door, but I did see a lot of guests asking where to go...

The entrance from the hotel is in a hallway lined with a wall of "floating" wine bottles, quite a welcoming site if you ask me. You cross the threshold
and into the restaurant bar you go. A zig-zag of bar counters lead you to the hostesses where behind them you see the dining space. Lush curtains hang from ceiling to floor while the mirror mosaics on the opposite wall give a touch of mystery. The half-moon booths offer comfy yet stylish seating with the tufted fabric and Victorian styling. Lighting wasn't an issue for us as we were naturally under a lower ceiling, but I can understand how other tables might feel a bit in the spotlight. C said that was one of his priorities before I even mentioned it, so I feel confident they'll figure it out.

There were five of us to start wi
th a possible two more to join. A gorgeous bar-level table of eight sat open, almost like it was waiting for us. Beautiful honey stained wood served as our table top leveled between two white pillars. Round silver starbursts were laid as our placemats beneath a pair of perfectly heavy utensils... just a simple fork and knife, nothing too fancy to crowd the table. The stools we sat in shouldn't be called stools, rather bar-level la-z-boys. I love it when they have cushioned seats and backs! To tip the beauty scale while being clever, they use Marine Upholstery disguised as luxurious white leather! What a great idea! Not to mention this means they don't have to worry about bringing in their outdoor furniture. How clever is that?!

We started with some Market Plates that C put together for us. Assorted cheeses and candied nuts with pork pate and fried olives- a perfect little snack for everyone. It was presented, along with the menus, on a plank of cherry-stained wood to emphasize the sustainable efforts of the restaurant. The menu focuses on farm-to-table products mostly grown and harvested in Austin and the surrounding areas so you can actually TRACE your food from start to finish.

We then decided on the main course. After asking our server about the Beef plate that A & I would share, I found out it was 4oz. of shortribs paired with 4oz. of Ribeye... all boneless! Hallelujah they've answered my prayers! Don't other restaurants realize we don't come to a nice dinner to get ribs under our nails and cut through the gristle from a bone-in steak? That's what I'm paying you guys for,
so do it for me.

I should have asked the Chef to come out so I could personally thank him, but instead I was enjoying the flavor of it all too much to think about anything else. The ribeye was cooked perfectly (med-rare) and the ribs were just so moist! I'm not much of a beef person, but every now and then it just hits the spot. Dessert was a must after I saw the Apple Huckelberry Cobbler with Lemon Thyme Ice Cream. A perfect sweet for two people but a little big for just me, the cobbler was yummy and not too bready. All too often restaurants over-do the streusel toppings and it ends up drying out the actual fruit. Not this time! It was well balanced and almost refreshing because of the not-too-sweet apple pieces.

As if we hadn't indulged enough, they brought out a tray of locally made square bon-bons with 'TRACE' on the top. Dark chocolate with Tito's Vodka and a bit of Chile spice at the end, a Milk Chocolate with Whiskey and a Semi-Sweet with Raspberry Liqueur. Had we not ordered dessert already, it would have been a wonderful surprise to satisfy the inevitable sweet tooth after a rich meal like that. Even so, we gobbled up every last bite.

After hearing so-so rev
iews from well-known locals and even people I see on a daily basis, I was a bit worried. Now I'm wondering what the hell they're thinking?! Everyone at our table enjoyed every bite, the service was great and the decor was nice and calm. What more do you need in a dining experience?
Five Stars from me!

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